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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.