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The pungent aroma of red chilli powder fills the air at a production facility in a city near Seoul. Within, brined napa cabbage soaks in sizeable industrial containers during the first stage of a traditional procedure.

"It's now considered a global dish from Korea, but this is illogical," notes a factory owner. "Our domestic market has been seized."

The struggle originates from a widening import-export gap. South Korea brings in more kimchi than it sends abroad, with more affordable Chinese-produced products gaining a foothold in the domestic market.

The Price Disparity

Kimchi from China sells to restaurants at around 1,700 won per kilogram. However, Korean-made versions average roughly 3,600 won per kilogram—more than double the price.

From January to October this year, imports stood at $159 million, predominantly from China, while overseas sales were valued at $137 million.

A Cornerstone of Culture

Kimchi is a staple of culinary tradition on the Korean peninsula. Its definition includes much more than the spicy cabbage most familiar to international diners.

• There are over 150 recognised varieties, made with radish, cucumber, spring onions and other vegetables.
• They are seasoned with blends of chilli powder, garlic, ginger and fermented seafood paste.
• The fermentation process produces health-promoting probiotics, contributing to its status as a health food.

Shifting Habits

Traditionally, families prepared large quantities together during kimjang, a tradition designated by UNESCO. Yet, how Koreans consume kimchi are evolving.

Single-person households have more than tripled since 2000, now representing over 36% of all households. As a result, fewer people make kimchi at home.

Instead, it is increasingly consumed pre-packaged or while eating out, where it is served free of charge with every meal. Charging for such a basic side dish would be inconceivable.

The Producer's Plight

"If you avoid losses and don’t go bankrupt, that’s already fortunate," comments a producer. "In our industry over the past decade, we haven’t been able to invest in equipment."

‘A Food That Contains Our Soul’

Economic realities mean that cost, rather than provenance or production technique, is now the primary consideration.

One producer who has operated a facility for 29 years canceled plans for expansion years ago as foreign kimchi became popular. "Should we really be using kimchi from abroad when this is a food that contains our people’s soul?" he says. "It’s truly heartbreaking."

Additional Challenges

These difficulties are exacerbated by the changing climate, which is affecting cabbage farming. Growing in summer has become increasingly difficult in traditional highland growing areas, causing market prices to sometimes more than double from one year to the next.

Government agencies and producers are working on hardier cabbage types and improved storage systems, but industry groups doubt whether such measures can offset the pressures.

Around three-quarters of South Korea’s kimchi manufacturers are very small enterprises with four or fewer employees, using handcrafted techniques that struggle to compete with industrial-scale production in China.

Finding a Way Forward

The industry is attempting to adapt, albeit with few options.

• A subsidy program offers restaurants a subsidy to switch back to Korean-made kimchi.
• There are petitions for increased scrutiny of declared import prices for kimchi.
• Government initiatives include voluntary labelling schemes for restaurants, farm aid for cabbage growers, and studies to extend kimchi’s shelf life for export.

The Final Defense

In the end, many are convinced that superior quality remains the local industry's strongest defence.

"Our kimchi has a distinct flavor," states an association head. "That cannot be replicated."